I have purchased several applique designs from different stock design companies. I have noticed that some have a zig-zag tackdown stitch and others have a running line. Also, some have only a tackdown and others are completed with a column. What is the correct process?

There really isn’t a right or wrong way in applique, but there are reasons for each of the processes that you asked about. First, let’s go over the three parts of the applique. The outline defines where the fabric is placed and serves as a cutting line for those who own applique cutting equipment. The tackdown, step number two, holds the fabric in place. The border provides an attractive edge and prevents the fabric from fraying.

The zigzag tackdown stitch covers the edge of a cut piece of fabric, and is a good one to use especially when the applique material is twill. Because twill is heavy, the edges tend to pop up with a mere running stitch holding it in place, making it more difficult for the column border to lie flat. However, if you are doing your cutting during the applique process, you will much prefer a running stitch to tack the fabric in place. The scissors, which will get caught in the jagged edged of the zigzag stitch, will slide smoothly around a running stitch outline.

Sometimes only a low-density column (zigzag) is used to keep the applique in place and the column border is not even part of the design. You see this mostly in athletic wear, and the applique product is adhesive backed twill. When this is the process, it is imperative that you heat press the applique in place, in addition to the stitching, to keep the fabric from buckling or fraying with repeated laundering. Even when a column border is used to finish off the design, I am a proponent of using a heat press to complete the process. The design will retain its professional quality for the life of the garment when you take the few extra seconds to put on the finishing touch